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A simple method that seems reliable running a nichrome coil up to ~900°C is to use copper wire as a heat sink and attach to the nichrome with cable sleeves - those thin wall tinned copper tubes with a plastic "funnel" and belled entry at one end, normally used to make decent quality crimped terminations with finely stranded wire. Choose a sleeve that slides over solid copper wire, which in this case is ~1mm OD. Rip the plastic off the sleeves, slip the plain ends over the copper about ½ way, solder in place and also fill the belled end of the sleeves with solder. An advantage is that ordinary soft (electrical) solder can be used and no special flux required.
In my case ~80mm of the copper wire is exposed to ambient air. Nichrome coil ~32 awg and 3mm OD is attached by straightening a section ~10mm long at each end, reheating the soldered sleeves and dipping the nichrome into molten solder.
Strictly, it is not the same as a soldered joint because the nichrome will not be wetted but it is electrically sound (conducts well) and mechanically robust, since the comparatively heavy gauge copper sucks the heat away from the connection far faster than the nichrome can put it back in. Of course if the joint is somehow allowed to get hot the solder will melt and quickly fall out; then the show is over. One can also crimp the sleeves to the copper with nichrome coil in between (ie concentrically) but it is not as elegant and this also introduces a lot more heat to the copper wire and sleeves.
Plain old resin core solder works well, just keep it cool. ! Sleeves with plastic funnels still attached
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